What question did this study set out to answer?

The research aims to understand how wave drivers influence coastal morphodynamics on the Bilbao coast.

February 9, 2026Instrumentation viewpoint0 citationsOpen Access

Combining in-situ measurements and video imagery to capture wave drivers on the Bilbao coast: implications on ml for coastal morphodynamic assessment

MRManuel Viñes Recasens IEIrati Epelde CACésar Mösso Aranda

Key Points

The research aims to understand how wave drivers influence coastal morphodynamics on the Bilbao coast.
Analyzed four beaches in the Bay of Biscay
Utilized wave propagation models (SWAN)
Employed machine learning (Gradient Boosting Regressor)
Integrated in-situ measurements with video monitoring systems (KOSTASystem)
Improved predictions of wave impacts on beach dynamics
Provided insights for addressing uncertainties in wave forecasting
Highlighted strategies for beach sustainability and restoration

Abstract

This study aims to explore wave drivers and their control on coastal morphodynamics, focusing on four beaches in the Bay of Biscay. By employing cutting-edge methodologies, the research integrates wave propagation models (SWAN), ML models (Gradi- ent Boosting Regressor), in-situ measures, and video monitoring (KOSTASystem) to forecast and examine beach responses. The re- sults tackle uncertainties in wave predictions and offer valuable insights for beach sustainability and restoration.

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