An annotated analytic review of biosynthetic polymers and circular business models in textile industry

Abstract The increasing tendency to use synthetic polyesters in the textile industry since the 1990s has been transformed by alternating material use with bio-based forms, with environmental concerns supported by regulations and customer consciousness for more than a decade. Although some textile companies have developed their operations in favor of a circular business model (CBM), more progress still needs to be realized, specially in eco-design applications. Polyesters, with their specific material qualifications, provide textile companies opportunities to produce textile products for a variety of applications, specially for technical textile applications. For sure, this is not a random selection for both producers and customers, considering the material property and economic factors. In this research we have aimed to find the answers to the questions that whether biosynthetic polymers can fully replace fossil-based polymers in textile applications and what are the current challenges in establishing a fully circular business model in the textile industry. For this purpose we have realized our analysis based on polymer material analysis, ecodesign, recycling systems, business management and market behavior levels using cross literature review, descriptive review, as well as modelling methods for efficiency analysis methods. According to the findings, material development pacing local needs is expected to increase in the near future considering the regional economy and environmental conditions. Through more developed and scaled recycling solutions within closed-loop and open-loop systems, aggregated inert textiles can be significantly decreased. As long as the environmentally negative externalities are eliminated without missing the objective criteria of the material application, the green transformation can yield a positive response from textile customers. Behavior against price premiums may still remain a question until alternative products are launched; however, from a business and customer perspective, it will also be a factor in the buying decision stage. The environmental regulations and scale economy to be reached, depending on the demand for these new eco-textiles, are other determinants in the market.