Niacinamide (NIA) is a widely used skincare ingredient with established benefits for skin barrier support, inflammation reduction, and dermal health. However, the mechanisms governing its transdermal delivery remain insufficiently understood, particularly regarding how formulation pH influences its permeation through the stratum corneum (SC). This study investigates how donor phase pH (5.0 vs. 7.4) modulates NIA skin permeation and how these effects relate to pH induced changes in SC electrical properties. Franz cell diffusion experiments were combined with electrical impedance spectroscopy (EIS) using full‑thickness human skin and 3D reconstructed epidermal tissue models. Permeation was quantified over 24 h and in pH switch experiments, while EIS characterized pH dependent changes in membrane resistance (Rmem) and effective capacitance (Ceff). Additional analyses assessed microbial conversion of NIA to nicotinic acid during prolonged exposure. Neutral donor pH (7.4) increased NIA permeation by roughly twofold compared with acidic pH (5.0) in both membrane types. Correspondingly, pH 7.4 decreased Rmem and increased Ceff, indicating pH driven changes in SC lipid organization and dielectric behavior. These effects were reversible and likely stem from alterations in SC lipid domains, including pH dependent partial deprotonation of free fatty acids that modifies the continuous lipid regions and introduce localized structural microdefects. Such changes enhance NIA and ion permeability and increase SC dielectric properties at neutral pH. Although microbial conversion of NIA to nicotinic acid was negligible within the first 24 h, it became clearly detectable upon prolonged experiments. In conclusion, donor phase pH is a critical determinant of NIA skin permeation, primarily through reversible modulation of SC lipid structure and transport pathways. These findings highlight the importance of pH control in topical formulations and underscore the need to consider microbiota‑mediated transformations when evaluating the efficacy and safety of skin care products containing NIA.
Sjöberg et al. (Tue,) studied this question.