The study presents an exploratory design-space mapping approach for analysing knitted fabrics through the combined consideration of structural, comfort-related, and optical parameters. The methodology addresses the multi-parameter nature of knitted macrostructures, where functional behaviour emerges from the interaction of yarn composition, stitch architecture, and structural configuration rather than from isolated descriptors. Twelve knitted samples differing in stitch type and yarn linear density, and incorporating photoluminescent and reflective yarns, were analysed. Fabric thickness and air permeability were selected as representative structural and comfort-related parameters, while optical response was characterised using a dimensionless reflectance ratio under multiple illumination conditions. All parameters were normalised to enable comparative representation within a unified design space. The resulting maps reveal visual clusters, structurally isolated cases, and illumination-dependent optical equivalence between structurally different configurations. The findings demonstrate that similar optical performance can be achieved through alternative structural solutions, depending on the illumination context. The proposed approach provides a qualitative, design-oriented framework that supports engineering decision-making without implying optimisation or ranking, while revealing alternative design pathways and context-dependent equivalence.
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Radostina A. Angelova
Technical University of Sofia
Е.А. Борисова
Technical University of Sofia
Daniela Sofronova
Technical University of Sofia
Textiles
Technical University of Sofia
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Angelova et al. (Tue,) studied this question.
synapsesocial.com/papers/69eb0bfa553a5433e34b5840 — DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/textiles6020051
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