Efficacy Evaluation of N-Acyl-Phytosphingosine Prepared from Marula Oil Derived Fatty Acids in Skin Barrier Repair

Purpose: This study aims to assess the efficacy of a novel N-acyl-phytosphingosine prepared from marula oil derived fatty acids (MO-CER NPs) in repairing impaired skin barrier function. Patients and Methods: MO-CER NPs were synthesized from N-acyl-phytosphingosine using marula oil as a fatty acid source. Their effects on skin barrier improvement were compared with those of conventional C18-CER NP. A 28-day clinical trial involving 32 subjects was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of a topical cream containing 0.05% MO-CER NPs on barrier-compromised skin. Results: Treatment with MO-CER NPs alleviated UVB-induced barrier damage as effectively as C18-CER NP, evidenced by increased expression of filaggrin and loricrin and reduced count of sunburn cells. Notably, MO-CER NPs showed superior anti-inflammatory activity. Furthermore, MO-CER NPs upregulated key genes involved in ceramide biosynthesis, keratinocyte proliferation, and differentiation. The clinical trial confirmed that topical application of 0.05% MO-CER NPs significantly improved barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss and erythema, while increasing skin thickness and density. Conclusion: MO-CER NPs demonstrated superior efficacy over conventional C18-CER NP in ameliorating skin barrier dysfunction and inflammation, highlighting its potential for improving barrier-compromised skin conditions. Keywords: ceramides, marula oil, keratinocyte, inflammation, skin barrier