From necessity to identity: entrepreneurial perspectives on key drivers of second-hand clothing consumption in the Philippines’ ukay-ukay sector

Introduction The global crisis of textile waste stemming from the fast fashion industry has necessitated a rapid transition toward circular economies. In the Philippines, the ukay-ukay market represents a culturally embedded, grassroots model of circularity that has historically been viewed primarily through a lens of economic necessity. However, the contemporary motivations driving this sector remain largely misunderstood. This study addresses this gap by investigating the drivers behind Filipino consumers’ engagement with second-hand apparel from the “market-facing” perspective of business owners. By treating sellers as expert observers of consumer psychographics, the research seeks to move beyond traditional assumptions and explore how this informal market facilitates a shift from survival-based consumption to sophisticated identity construction. Methods This study utilized a qualitative approach grounded in reflexive thematic analysis. Primary data were collected through in-depth interviews with 17 ukay-ukay entrepreneurs, a sample size determined by reaching thematic saturation. The participant pool was intentionally diverse, featuring legacy entrepreneurs who provided longitudinal depth and newer entrants who validated current, trend-driven shifts such as digital commerce. To interpret the findings, the study introduced a dual-theory lens that integrates the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) and the Diffusion of Innovation (DOI). This framework allowed for a simultaneous analysis of micro-level intentions, such as attitudes and subjective norms and macro-level adoption dynamics, including relative advantage and complexity. Results The analysis revealed seven interconnected motivational themes that define the ukay-ukay landscape: redefined affordability, social influences, the pursuit of uniqueness, perceptions of quality, growing environmental awareness, the thrill of discovery, and the importance of trust. These findings indicate a significant evolution in the market, where consumers increasingly use second-hand items for identity construction rather than mere cost-saving. A critical finding was the role of “Trust” as a proxy for Perceived Behavioral Control (PBC), which is essential in an informal market where relational reliability serves as the primary mechanism for facilitating consumer control over transactions. Discussion The integrated TPB–DOI model clarifies how modern market innovations, such as professional curation and live selling on social media, have reduced the perceived complexity of second-hand shopping while increasing behavioral control. By showing how affordability and uniqueness simultaneously shape both consumer attitudes and the perceived relative advantage of the goods, the study demonstrates the tension between economic necessity and identity-driven adoption. This contextual adaptation of established behavioral theories highlights how informal, culturally embedded markets challenge conventional assumptions of innovation diffusion. Ultimately, the research provides a context-specific framework that advances the understanding of sustainable fashion in emerging economies, offering actionable insights for both entrepreneurship and policy-making.